The Greatest Automotive Flops of the Last 25 Years

Chevrolet SSR (2003–06)

It’s a convertible. It’s a pickup. It’s a car. It’s yet another example of how the American people refuse to pay for anything even remotely corporate where hot-rod culture is concerned. Yep, that’s right: It’s the Chevrolet SSR, and we can hear you yawning already.

You would think that GM executives would have taken a lesson from the much-maligned Plymouth Prowler, an awkward-looking, underpowered, and overpriced factory hot rod that failed miserably following a relatively short production life. The SSR—an awkward-looking, underpowered, and overpriced factory hot rod that arrived just one year after the Prowler’s death—also failed miserably and in short order. What on earth prompted the General to retread such potentially floppy ground, and so soon? Was it something in Detroit’s water?

To GM’s credit, the company at least attempted to right a few of the Prowler’s wrongs. The SSR may have been built on the same platform as the Chevrolet TrailBlazer, but a 300-hp, 5.3-liter V-8 lived between the truck’s deep-draw fenders, not a puny V-6. After customers and journalists complained of sluggish performance, the 4700-pound, $40,000-plus SSR was gifted with a 390-hp, 6.0-liter V-8 and an optional six-speed manual. It wasn’t enough, however, to overpower the uncustom convertible truck rod’s inherent dorkiness. Few cried when the SSR was axed.

Does Brake Fluid Need to Be Changed?

Articles by our car-care experts at Cars.com

 Changing brake fluid can be a slippery subject. Some manufacturers include it in their maintenance schedules and others don't.

Mercedes-Benz, for example, says brake fluid should be replaced every two years or 20,000 miles, and Volkswagen says that should be done on most of its models every two years regardless of mileage. Subaru recommends fresh brake fluid every 30,000 miles.

On the other hand, most Chevrolets can go 150,000 miles or 10 years, according to Chevy's maintenance schedule, and many Ford, Chrysler and Toyota vehicles don't list brake fluid as a regular maintenance item.
Check your car's owner's manual to see what the manufacturer recommends. You might also want to discuss the slippery subject of brake fluid with a trusted mechanic if the manufacturer doesn't give any guidance. Don't be surprised if a mechanic suggests replacing the brake fluid periodically, because mechanics probably have seen what can happen if you don't.
What can happen? Even though brake fluid dwells in a sealed system it still can absorb moisture over time, and that can lead to corrosion in the brake system. Moisture also lowers the boiling temperature of brake fluid, and that can reduce braking effectiveness in repeated hard stops.
If the manufacturer lists a 10-year interval or none at all for replacing brake fluid, how often should you have it done?
Every two or three years is probably too often, though if it helps you sleep at night, then go for it. Just be aware that some service shops, especially those that make their living by replacing fluids, might try to scare you with dire warnings that disaster is imminent unless you flush all your vehicle's fluids long before it is necessary.
Unless the manufacturer calls for it sooner, we would wait four or five years and have it done at the same time as other brake work, such as replacing pads or rotors. Replacing brake fluid is cheaper than replacing brake lines or a master cylinder that has corroded, so don't automatically dismiss the recommendation of a mechanic as just salesmanship.
And no matter who suggests fresh brake fluid, make sure they're replacing it with the type that is called for by the vehicle manufacturer. Some vehicles require DOT 3 fluid, others a different variety, such as DOT 5, so consult your owner's manual before you give the go ahead.
 

The Greatest Automotive Flops of the Last 25 Years

GMC Envoy XUV (2003–05)

On paper, the plan was ingenious: Build a retractable roof and a movable, watertight partition into the back half of an SUV. One minute, you have lockable, covered cargo space; the next, you’re hauling Christmas trees and grandfather clocks and hosing out the back half of the car. Makes sense, right?

Still, the General missed the boat on this one. The pickup-slash-SUV concept was sound—witness the success of the Chevrolet Avalanche—but for the Envoy XUV, the devil lay in the details. Strike one: The XUV was made by slicing and dicing an extended-wheelbase GMC Envoy, which is basically just a Chevrolet TrailBlazer, a.k.a. “The Mid-Size SUV That Time Forgot.” (Heavy, bumbling chassis? Check. Fisher-Price interior and the fuel mileage of a 747? Check.) Strike two: Whereas the Envoy was merely unattractive, the XUV was hideous. Strike three: Impracticality. Even with folding seats, an open roof, and a lay-down tailgate, the XUV couldn’t haul much more than an ordinary Envoy could. Thankfully, it was more expensive.

Oh, wait. That’s not good.

How Long Does a Car Battery in a New Car Last?

Though battery problems are often associated with cold weather, Consumer Reports magazine says heat is a bigger enemy of car batteries and will take a bigger toll on performance and reserve capacity. The magazine recommends that vehicle owners in hotter parts of the country have their car battery tested after two years of ownership and then every year after. Those who live in colder areas can wait four years to test performance and capacity, and then every year after.
"Heat kills batteries," according to John Banta, a Consumer Reports project leader and part of the team that tests batteries for the magazine. "Many times in cold climates your battery fails to start your car on a below-freezing day. The reason this happens is that the heat of the past summers has weakened your battery. When you use it in the cold, the starter requires more electrical current to turn over the cold engine with its thickened oil."
Testing a battery's performance and reserve (or amp-hour) capacity is not just a matter of seeing whether it will hold a charge (or checking the electric eye found on some batteries to see if it is green), so testing is best done by an auto technician.

The Greatest Automotive Flops of the Last 25 Years Lincoln Blackwood (2001–02)

Bad cars come and go, but flops are forever. 

 Psst—hey, pal! Yeah, you! You wanna buy a truck, right? Tell you what I’m gonna do: Hows about we find you a special truck, one just for you and your refined tastes, see? You like luxury? We got luxury: This beauty may look like a crew-cab F-150, but it’s a Lincoln, and it drives like one, sure as I’m standin’ here. You look like a Lincoln kind of guy, you know that? You know Tony Soprano was a Lincoln guy? You want a cigar? I got some Cubans in my coat. Hold on.

Check out the cargo box: It’s lined in carpet and gen-yoo-wine stainless steel. That’s stainless —means it can’t be stained. You can’t carry nuthin’ heavy or dirty in it without uglying it up, but it makes for a nice trunk, see? And that bed cover? It’s power-operated! Opens to a 45-degree angle, it does! That’s real, honest-to-God imitation African wenge wood on the sides of the bed, there—them Lincoln folks photographed it and reproduced it in vinyl and everything, and I got a cousin Sal over in Jersey who says it don’t fade fer nuthin’, not even when you get some blood on it. Only 3000 of these dealies were made this year, and it only costs $52,000, and it only comes in black, and…

What? Why you walkin’ away? Was it somethin’ I said? I thought we had a deal! You want I should show you the LED lights in the trunk? 

 

 

How Often Should You Change the Engine Air Filter?

Vehicle maintenance schedules vary on how often the air filter should be changed. On most Chevrolet engines, for example, the recommended interval is every 45,000 miles, but Ford says it should be done every 30,000 miles on many of its engines. Hyundai also says every 30,000 miles but shortens it to 15,000 for "severe" driving conditions, which includes heavy traffic in hot weather and frequent driving on unpaved roads or dusty conditions.
You might be able to tell by looking when a filter needs replacing, such as finding black areas on the section through which outside air enters. Air filters on most engines are fairly easy to access, and you can check the location in your owner's manual if you need help.
If you can't tell by looking, but it's been more than three years or 30,000 miles, you probably should get a new one (especially if you can save money by doing it yourself). However, you should be leery if every time you get an oil change the repair shop says you also need a new air filter. We would expect most drivers can go more than a year, at least, and probably more than two years.
A clogged air filter won't significantly affect fuel economy, according to a 2009 study conducted for the U.S. Department of Energy, but it can hurt acceleration by 6% to 11%. Acceleration is harder to measure than fuel economy, so you may not notice a gradual performance loss. For that reason, it's a good idea to periodically visually check the engine air filter.

Articles by our car-care experts at Cars.com

MPI Winter Tire Program Indoor Auto Sales Winnipeg

Manitoba public insurance

Winter tire program

Get a Grip

With the Winter Tire Program

INDOOR AUTO SALES AND SERVICE

Even if you’re driving safely, winter roads can be slippery. Reduce your risk on the road by purchasing

winter tires with low-interest financing. The MPI Winter Tire Program provides low-interest financing to

 eligible Manitobans at prime plus two per cent*, on up to $2,000 per vehicle. This financing can be used

 for the purchase of qualifying winter tires and associated costs from Indoor Auto Sales and Service. 
Program eligibility: To be eligible for the Winter Tire Program, you must:be an individual 

(not corporate) Manitoba Public Insurance customer, purchase qualifying winter tires for a passenger 

vehicle or light truck (gross vehicle weight under 4541 kg) registered under your name have no financing 

restrictions or outstanding arrears on your Manitoba Public Insurance account. Check your eligibility 

quickly and easily with our eligibility confirmation tool. Qualifying tires will display this symbol  as

 established by Transport Canada and the Rubber Association of Canada. It indicates that the tires have 

met specific snow traction performance requirements and are designed to be used in severe snow conditions. 

Financing can be applied to the  purchase of winter tires displaying the symbol above as well as associated 

costs including:
rims,mounting balancing,taxes and fees The following are not eligible for financing:
repair of tires, maintenance/storage of tires between seasons unless included as part of the initial cost,

 switchover cost of changing between all-season and winter tires after the initial purchase/installation unless

 included as part of the initial cost. 

Visit Indoor Auto Sales
Determine your eligibility for the program, then visit Indoor Auto Sales and select your tires. We will confirm 

your eligibility and complete the loan authorization. You will be asked to:provide your vehicle registration

 certificate and your driver’s licence or identification card, select a financing term between one and four years

 and a monthly payment withdrawal day, choose between using the existing banking or credit card

 information on your Manitoba Public Insurance account, or have your Autopac agent contact you for 

the information, provide your phone number and preferred Autopac agent, read and sign the loan information

 (including applicable interest rate), Preauthorized Payment Agreement, promissory note and terms and

 conditions We will fax your signed application to your Autopac agent. 

*Interest rates are determined by the Bank of Canada and are subject to change without notice.

The Greatest Automotive Flops of the Last 25 Years

Jaguar X-type (2001–08)

 Bad cars come and go, but flops are forever.

 For a brief—and I do mean brief—period of time in the early part of this decade, this scribe worked at a Jaguar dealership as a parts guy. Most of my time was spent learning the million and one ways that an X-type could fall apart. Engines seized, interiors collapsed, transmissions exploded, and driveshafts—oh, the countless, countless driveshafts—ate their U-joints so regularly that you could set your watch by them. At a time when Jaguar reliability was finally approaching respectable, the all-wheel-drive X-type was the lone, laughable holdout. It was obnoxiously underbuilt, remarkably overpriced, and about as charming as a hernia.

The X-type was Coventry’s business-case company saver, an entry-level sports sedan for the wooden-drawing-room set. It was built on the bones of Jaguar parent Ford’s Mondeo/Contour, and it was intended to resurrect Coventry’s financial fortunes, providing the dignified marque with a way to snag young, affluent buyers. What the bean counters neglected to consider, however, was that young, affluent buyers are not lobotomy patients. A tarted-up economy sedan sold at luxury-car prices is still just a tarted-up economy sedan, especially if it tries to self-immolate every time you turn the key.

There was also an impossibly unpopular wagon version. The dealer that I worked for had one that sat on the lot for—I am not making this up—two years. 

Credit Guys Auto Sales and Finance Specialist

Credit Guys has moved to our new friendly indoor showroom at 33 Emes Road West St Paul Mb
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What Does the Check-Engine Light Mean?

 
That is a signal that the onboard diagnostics system (or OBD II) has detected a malfunction in the vehicle's emissions, ignition or fuel systems. It could be something as simple as a loose gas cap or something as severe as a faulty catalytic converter, so you shouldn't ignore it. All cars and light trucks have onboard diagnostics that are supposed to detect engine-related problems that affect the emissions control systems.
The check-engine light (typically a yellow or orange outline of an engine with the word "Check") should come on for a few seconds every time you start the engine with other warning lights. If it stays on, that means there is a problem.
If the check engine light is flashing, that usually indicates a misfire or other serious issue, and it should be dealt with quickly at an auto repair shop. Ignoring a flashing light increases the chances of additional problems, including damaging an expensive catalytic converter (which costs more than $1,000 to replace on some cars).
If it isn't flashing, before rushing to an auto repair shop you should first tighten the gas cap because a loose cap can trigger a warning. See if the light goes off after several engine starts over the next day or so. Replacing a worn gas cap that doesn't fully seal may also solve the problem.
If that doesn't do the trick, an auto technician will need to diagnose the problem by electronically tapping into an OBD II connector under the dashboard to read diagnostic codes that will help isolate what caused the light to go on, such as a bad spark plug or oxygen sensor.
Even if your vehicle seems to be performing well and your mileage isn't dropping, it's a bad idea to just ignore a check-engine light. Something is wrong, and it's likely to get worse. In addition, if you live in an area where vehicles have to pass periodic emissions tests, an activated check-engine light usually means your vehicle will automatically fail.

Article by our car-care experts at Cars.com

The Greatest Automotive Flops of the Last 25 Years

Subaru SVX (1991–97)

Ah, the Italians. When in doubt, that cherished Italian maxim goes, design something beautiful. If you can’t be bothered to come up with anything beautiful, it continues, then at least design something desperately weird and pawn it off on someone else.

The SVX was most definitely a case of the latter. Subaru’s most distinctive car—and considering the company gave birth to the 356cc 360 and the three-cylinder Justy, that’s saying a lot—came from the pen of legendary Italian designer Giorgetto Giugiaro. Yep, the same man who gave us the BMW M1, the Mark I Volkswagen Golf, and the Maserati Ghibli also gave us this wacky-windowed wonder. Perhaps the lunch menu that day included a bit too much grappa.

The SVX was intended to be the car on which the “new” Subaru would be built, a revolutionary achievement that banished all thoughts of the marque’s often quirky past. A 230-hp, 3.3-liter, 24-valve flat-six lived under the hood, and a highly evolved, electronically managed all-wheel-drive system put power to the ground. Four-wheel steering was available in Japan, and Giugiaro’s sweeping lines resulted in a drag coefficient of just 0.29. Unfortunately, tech wizardry wasn’t enough to overcome awkward styling and a high (almost $25,000 in 1992) price, and sales never took off. The SVX was a good car dragged down into floptastic floppiness by the hubris of its maker. 

 

How To Properly Check and Fill Tires

While it may seem like a mundane task, inflating tires is much more crucial to your car than you may think, and it results in a safer and more economical experience on the road. Your vehicle's handling also will be greatly improved as the larger a tire's inflated footprint, the more responsive and comfier the ride balance will be.
Because it's National Tire Safety Week, it's the perfect time to check your car's tires.
Before starting To find your tires' proper inflation level, look for a sticker on the driver-side doorjamb. It displays the vehicle weight restriction and tire information. The info is also found in the maintenance or car-care section of your vehicle’s owner's manual.
Don't refer to the sidewall markings on your tires, which in part specify the maximum tire pressure — not the recommended pressure.
Unless your tire is visibly flat, don't judge tire inflation just by looking at it; you have to use a tire pressure gauge to get the correct pounds per square inch reading. There are three types of tire-pressure gauges: digital, internal slide and dial. Prices range from $5 for a basic gauge to more than $30 for one that is digital, has an air-release button — or even talks. All will do the job, but you may want to consider the conditions in which you'll be using your gauge. "We've found that low-cost digital pressure gauges are very accurate and maintain the accuracy longer, but in extremely cold temperatures the gauge may not show up properly," said John Rastetter, Tire Rack's director of tire information services.


 Tips for checking and filling your tires
Tire manufacturers suggest checking tires when they're cold for the most accurate reading. Outside temperatures can cause tire pressure to vary by as much as 1 psi per 10 degrees; higher temperatures mean higher psi readings. "Tires are black; what does black do? Attract heat," Rastetter said, noting the importance of finding a shady place to check and fill all four tires.
Temperature plays a huge part in tire psi, Rastetter said, adding that the most crucial time of year to check pressure is in fall and winter when days are shorter and average temperatures plummet.
Check your tires in the morning before going anywhere, because as soon as you get behind the wheel for an extended amount of time, psi will rise. Rastetter said that if you've been on the road a long time and notice higher psi in your tires, don't let the air out, as the increase in pressure has built up due to the warm, constantly-in-motion tires
What to do
1. Pull your car onto a level surface in the shade.
2. Remove dust caps from the tires' valve stems.
3. Using your tire gauge, firmly press the tip of the gauge straight on to the tire's valve stem for a brief moment.
4. The tire gauge should provide a psi reading; if the number seems unrealistically low or high — for example, 85 psi or 1 psi – you will need to repeat the previous step, ensuring that the tire gauge's tip is properly making contact with the valve stem.
5. If the tire gauge's recorded reading is higher than the manufacturer-recommended rating, press the gauge tip on the valve stem until you hear air leak out. Check the tire pressure again.
6. If the reading is lower than recommended, fill the tire with air by firmly pressing the air-hose tip onto the valve stem. You will hear air quietly enter the tire. If you hear air leaking or spraying out, you need to double-check that the connection between the air hose and the tire’s valve stem is secure.
7. When you think you've added or let out enough air, check the pressure a few times with the gauge.
8. Replace the valve dust caps. Rastetter emphasized the importance of keeping dust caps on during winter driving because if water gets into the valve stem and freezes inside the tire, it could cause a flat.
While you're at it, check your spare tire's pressure. You don't want to have a flat tire and then find out your replacement is flat, too.
Make these steps part of your routine. It will benefit your vehicle and your wallet.

The Greatest Automotive Flops of the Last 25 Years

Chrysler’s TC by Maserati (1989–91)

Arrogance, thy name is Lee Iacocca. In the late 1980s, the Chrysler chairman and perpetual huckster turned a friendship with Alejandro de Tomaso, then president of Maserati, into the most shudder-worthy example of corporate avarice ever to roll off an assembly line. Chrysler’s TC by Maserati was little more than a Milan-built K-car with a few pricey underhood components and some styling hackery, a wrinkly grandmother dressed up in custom running shoes and ill-fitting hot pants. The Maserati trident plastered on the grille just added insult to injury.

To be fair, Iacocca’s brainchild wasn’t without its pluses. For 1989, the TC sported a 200-hp, 2.2-liter turbocharged four-cylinder with a Maserati-designed 16-valve cylinder head. A five-speed Getrag manual was also available that year, and Fichtel & Sachs dampers took care of wheel control. But by and large, the TC was a dud. In 1990 and 1991, Chrysler ditched the turbo four for a Mitsubishi-built V-6, neutering the Italian connection even further. Just over 7000 examples were sold over the course of three years.

Comedian Patton Oswalt once called the Kentucky Fried Chicken Famous Bowls—a heap of corn, mashed potatoes, and chicken lumped into a plastic container—a “failure pile in a sadness bowl.” Consider the TC the vehicular equivalent. 

 http://www.caranddriver.com/features/the-greatest-automotive-flops-of-the-last-25-years

Audi to unveil concept at Los Angeles Auto Show

On November 19th, Audi will unveil a new concept at the 2014 Los Angeles Auto Show – the first to be penned under new design director Marc Lichte.
Lichte, 45, was appointed in February 2014, and for him the core competences of the brand – sportiness, lightweight design and quattro drive – all have a high level of importance.
The concept car at the Los Angeles Auto Show will reportedly mark a new beginning in Audi design – both exterior and interior.

The Greatest Automotive Flops of the Last 25 Years Bad cars come and go, but flops are forever.

Sterling (1987–91)

Leave it to the Brits to floppify anything even remotely identifiable as a Honda product. The Sterling brand was created as a way for the much-maligned Austin Rover Group to reenter the American market, and on paper, it made sense: Take a Rover 800—which was really just a rebodied Acura Legend—rebadge it, and sell it through a network of independent dealers under a new, made-up brand. The hope was that such a plan would keep people from making any connection to the last U.S.-market Rover, a horrible little turd blossom called the SD1. Japanese reliability, British interior ambience, and a lack of preconceived notions? How could you lose?

Quite easily, as it turned out. Predictably, the problem lay in the car itself—the first Sterlings were nothing short of unreliable, hastily screwed-together nightmares. (Apparently, Japanese engineering doesn’t work if you assemble it with equal parts wood glue and indifference. Who knew?) When build quality improved a few years later, it was a case of too little, too late. Rover left America for the third time in 20 years in 1991, muttering something along the lines of, “it’s not you, it’s me.” America listened to its friends and didn’t call Rover back. 

 http://www.caranddriver.com/features/the-greatest-automotive-flops-of-the-last-25-years

 

When Do You Need to Replace Your Brakes?

 cars.com
Just as your gas mileage will vary depending on where and how you drive, so it goes with the life of brake pads (or linings), the friction material that gets pressed against a metal disc or drum to stop your vehicle.
If you drive only 8,000 miles a year but it's mainly in a crowded urban area such as Chicago, Boston or Washington, D.C., you will need to replace brake pads more often than someone who drives 28,000 miles a year across the flatlands of Nebraska. You use your brakes a lot more in urban driving than on a rural highway.
Unfortunately, there is no clear-cut schedule that tells you when it's time to replace the brakes, so you need to rely on your ears and the advice of an experienced automotive technician. Most vehicles should have their tires rotated at least every six months, and that is a good time to have the brakes inspected, as well. A mechanic can check the thickness of the pads and the condition of the brake hardware to spot wear.
Many cars have built-in wear sensors that scrape against a brake disc when the linings needed replacing. The driver will hear an annoying screeching sound when they apply the brakes (or when the brakes are released on some vehicles).
Those sensors aren't on every vehicle, so drivers should listen for squeaks, squeals, grinding (often a sign that brake pads are entirely gone) and other noises that indicate wear. Some minor noises can be eliminated by cleaning the brakes, but persistent, prominent noises usually mean parts are worn. Other signs are pulsations through the brake pedal, longer stopping distances, or when you apply the brakes your foot goes down further, closer to the floor. Because brake linings wear gradually, you may not notice the demise in performance, so that's where the experienced eye of a mechanic can help.
All cars have a brake warning light that comes on for a few seconds every time you start your car. If it comes on while driving, that probably means your brake system is low on fluid because of a leak or a problem with the brake master cylinder. Note that this is not the same warning light that comes on when you apply the hand- or foot-operated parking brake.
All cars and light trucks also have front disc brakes. Most have rear discs, as well, though some lower-priced cars still come with rear drum brakes. With discs, it has been common practice to just replace the brake pads and resurface the rotors on a lathe if needed so the surface is even and smooth.
In recent years, however, more automakers have switched to rotors that are lighter and thinner to reduce weight and save money. Discs used to last through two or three resurfacings, but don't be surprised if when it's time to replace the pads you're told you also need new rotors. The current ones may not have enough material to be shaved off in resurfacing and may not be as durable as those from, say, 10 or more years ago. In addition, repair shops are reluctant to resurface rotors because it adds time to a job and the quality of the work can vary by who does it and how good they are. Instead, it is faster, easier and more profitable for repair shops to just install new rotors along with new pads.
http://www.cars.com/auto-repair/expert-tips/brakes/when-do-you-need-to-replace-your-brakes/

The Greatest Automotive Flops of the Last 25 Years Bad cars come and go, but flops are forever.

 Vector (1971–present)

Vector Motors founder Jerry Wiegert has been compared to P.T. Barnum, his company to Never-Never Land, and his cars to—well, most of the things said about his cars have been suspiciously positive or virtually unprintable. Such is the fate of the odd and boastful.

The Vector Motors Corporation was established in the early 1970s with the stated aim of producing an affordable American supercar. Its first running prototype, built in 1980, sported outlandish looks and a twin-turbocharged, 650-hp Chevrolet V-8. Wiegert claimed that the car, dubbed the W2, would see production the following year and cost $125,000. To no one’s surprise, the first customer Vector, a modified version of the W2 known as the W8, didn’t appear until almost nine years later. Just 22 cars were built, and by the end of production, list price approached half a million dollars.

Vector was acquired by an Indonesian manufacturing conglomerate in 1993, and Wiegert was forcibly removed from command. A host of abortive projects followed, including the Lamborghini-powered M12, a machine that British journalist Jeremy Clarkson once called “very probably the worst car in the entire world.” Wiegert recently regained control of Vector, and according to the company’s website, a new, 1800-hp “hypercar” is currently undergoing development.

We’ll leave it to you to interpret what that means. As Barnum once said, “Without promotion, something terrible happens—nothing!” 

 http://www.caranddriver.com/features/the-greatest-automotive-flops-of-the-last-25-years